The nice thing if you have a problem and you have 2 of the same you can compare behavior.
I started both Spidermax and took pictures how many bars the temp gauge was showing after a certain time.
While the GT ( the old one) was going to 4 bars and stayed there after 2 minutes, the RS was climbing and climbing.
After 3 min the RS was switching on the coolant fan while the GT opened the second stage radiator to keep the temp around 4 bars. This shows when after climbing to 5 bars the temp drops down to 4 bars without engaging the fan.
After 4 minutes the RS was up to 10 bars and the red warning light for engine overheating turned on.
The fan did blow only cold air.
Here you can see how warm your engine is. (parziale = temperature bar)
So now we have to check if water is in and air is out of all pipes.
To get to the two radiators some disassembly is required.
Take off the mirrors, take off the front faring (nose), take off the windscreen, take of the foot rests, take off the side panels with the lights.
15 min later you can reach everything - well nearly.
Also take off the left black triangle (no screws) to get to the motor.
Drain some coolant from the overflow bottle via a thin hose, so you have some coolant to top off the radiator.
Remove the radiator cap
Short interruption for a Spidermax cooling system lession
The cooling fan on the main radiator (1) kicks in if that is still not enough and the water temperature is over 100 degrees.
To get the air our from the bottom we need to start with the engine. There is a bleeder valve what you can open with a 8mm nut.
Let the engine run and slowly open a bit until just water seeps out, close when just coolant runs out.
Next step is to check the already open radiator, top up coolant and look out for bubbles emerging.
You might need to do that a few times.
The last step is to open the bleeding screw on the second radiator when you notice that the radiator gets warm.
|I drained 600 ml out of the overflow bottle|
|after filling up the coolant level in the radiator.|
After all this work my RS now behaves the way she should.
10 min idle and not over 4 bars. The second stage radiator kicks in and then the cooling fan. This time it blows hot air.
So I am quite happy with this outcome and already have the side panels off for an easier paint job.
Testing it a second time in the evening provided the same results.
Since we have everything now in easy access, I revisited my coolant level checker and modified the length a bit.
|60 cm plastic hose and 20 cm inside the overflow bottle|
|with 20 cm length the pipe is in the medium water level|
|water level checker installed|
|water level checker sucks coolant after a short press on the ball pump - so everything is hunky dory (OK)|